Darwin

Good Morning! as depicted by Wilson the 'barrista' of deck 14

Land at last, after five days at sea. 

Arrived in Darwin and hooked up at the cruise terminal which is a short walk away from downtown

We decided not to go on an organized tour but rather to wander around on our own. Walked along the lagoon and see the commercial vessels - ranging from tour boats to pearlers to fishing boats

Darwin has a great story to tell ……. It’s a small city by most measures – a population of around 130,000 today, they say. It was founded in the mid- 19^th Century by just over 100 settlers. A very diverse population has developed as its basic industries developed – Pearl Diving and aquaculture, mining including for Argyle pink diamonds and as a port for the embarkation of livestock from Queensland and the Northern Territory.

Darwin has regularly been demolished, depopulated and regrown until that has become one of its major tales. In February 1942 the Japanese bombed Darwin attacking in two waves. They dropped more bombs here than they did on Pearl Harbor and destroyed many of the buildings, sank civilian and naval shipping (including a US Naval ship) and caused substantial loss of life. The extent of the destruction was kept a secret for long after the war and even now the extent of the loss of life is disputed – officially 250 or so but potentially twice that or more because no one really knew how many Aborigines were killed. Given the extreme risk of invasion the area became a military zone and civilians were all moved to a line parallel to Brisbane half-way down the continent!

Again in 1974 on Christmas eve and Christmas Day there was major destruction of Darwin – this time through Cyclone Tracy. Pretty much every habitation was destroyed and again there had to be a mass evacuation.

Darwin has survived and grown and is the center of a fascinating part of Australia – one I will definitely revisit (probably next year). The major sites are areas of great natural beauty and homes to relatively authentic Aboriginal culture.

(?)

The two areas that sound most interesting to me are the Litchfield National Park with its waterfalls and Kakadu.

On this trip, sadly, we are only here for the day so it will be hard to see more than the city itself - although one of the tours offered by the ship is a Darwin Pub Crawl (which starts at 10am and finishes at lunchtime)! A vague sense of the place is also provided in the blurb we received about Darwin that tells us “ locals in the top end consume over 60 gallons of beer a year…..”

I have a feeling that if I cant get a decent internet connection while here that might be my activity of last resort!!

Ah well – back to the ship and on to Singapore. Interestingly, together with a bevy of Singapore Immigration Officers – they know how to live they will be doing our clearance en route on board ship.

As Lael would say – must be nice!!!

Meditations on the Voyage

As I spent time on the elliptical machine this morning in the gym I flicked TV channels to get “caught up” on the world we are passing by. A few things got my attention

One of the most striking was that of distances. We have sailed over 2000 nautical miles since we left Sydney and have 500 to go until we reach Darwin. Essentially that tells us a bit about how big Australia is – we sailed due North (pretty much) until we turned West into the Torres Straits after Cape York so, without doing the research, that’s not dissimilar to the North-South dimension of the US or the distance between Cape Town and where I grew up in Salisbury (Harare).

Much of that distance we were sailing within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park; which tells you how huge this tremendous natural wonder really is.

The other striking thing as we sailed over the last few days has been how close we have been to shore. For much of the time certainly within a mile. 

The coastline for much of the time has dense vegetation all the way down to the coast and, at night, very few lights can be seen. This is a powerful reminder that only   ~ 22 million people live here; subtract Melbourne and Sydney and clearly the contrast to the East Coast of the US is even more jarring.

Besides being close to land we are also sailing very shallow waters – right now we have 20 meters clearance – I hope our captain has learned from the Costa Concordia experience!!!!

Exploration of the Australian center by white explorers was taking place in the mid 1800s just as took place in Africa. We watched a movie called Burke and Wills that dramatized such an expedition from Melbourne north to the Gulf of Carpenteria. The director of the movie (who is on board talking about his career) highlighted the wrongheadedness of these poor brave people who eventually died in the effort.

The most amazing thing to me was the way Burke, in particular, refused to acknowledge or accept help or direction from the Aboriginal people who essentially were alongside them all the way there and back as they starved and died. This was very unlike the African explorers who did exactly the opposite. The story of Burke and Wills and the other expeditions are still the stuff of Aboriginal folklore.

Another story that got my attention. The means of transportation across the Australian center to Darwin. At the time of Burke and Wills it was walking or horses and camels. The camels came from Afghanistan and ‘Persia’ and they were tended by people who became known as Afghans (wherever they were from). Today there is a railway that follows the route – very luxurious – and it is of course known as the ‘Ghan’!!! Again, with no accurate data to support it, my guess is that the run from Melbourne to Darwin via Alice Springs on the Ghan is not dissimilar to the trip I regularly made between Cape Town and Salisbury.

Maybe one of these days………..

Native Aboriginals still live a relatively undestroyed existence in the Northern Territory. Our lecturer tells us there is a history of Aboriginals in this area going back 2500 generations – a history recalled in legend and in rock art.

Documented in their history and art record are the trading visits of ships from Indonesia (Macassars) which took place centuries ago; then the visits by Dutch explorers in sailing ships who were charting the spice routes and gave their names to Arnhem Land, Groote Island and the area we are right now – Wessels Island. The Dutch were followed by the British – first by HMS Beagle (on this voyage without Charles Darwin) who named Darwin after their absent scientist.

The closest land mass (other than Australia) to where we are now is Papua New Guinea with Indonesia to the West and only Pacific Islands like Fiji to the East. During WW2 these were invaded by the Japanese and represented their farthest line of advance. The top end of Australia was reinforced by Allied troops – particularly American – expecting an imminent invasion. Horrendous campaigns by Australian troops in the jungle of New Guinea and naval successes at the battle of the Coral Sea and Midway eventually turned the tide but not without Darwin having suffered – more later

Days at Sea

We are sailing in calm seas parallel to the coast of Australia. First, New South Wales and now Queensland - about 450 miles a day. At present we are carefully avoiding the Great Barrier Reef and all we can really see of it are scattered islands.

The weather has changed from cool in Sydney to warm and humid with shortlived heavy showers - a taste of more to come as we cross the Tropic of Capricorn. Beautiful rainbows follow our course

This first leg of the cruise (from Sydney to Dubai) is a bit excessive on sea days - (15) vs days in port (6). After Dubai everything changes with 19 more sea days interspersed between 26 tour days. So, this is definitely the 'calm before the storm'.

I don't actually mind the days at sea - there is a routine you get into that is as relaxing or productive as you want it to be.

As an example today I went to the gym early and had a workout before the rush and the day began. Walked forward on the ship to the cappuccino bar and grabbed a coffee. After showering joined Merle for breakfast where we sat and chatted with two sets of fellow passengers. 

Most of our companions are Australian (makes sense) quite diverse in background, and well traveled. Our tablemates at dinner provide an example - he grew up in New Zealand, joined the Australian military and served two tours in Vietnam. After leaving the army he became a Federal Police security officer and is now retired. Lily, his wife, is Vietnamese - he met her there when she was working as an interpreter - and, after a bit of a struggle he managed to get her immigration status just before the fall of Saigon.

We then went to a lecture on Darwin - our next port; fascinating history that I will share when we are there on Tuesday 

Merle and I then started on the projects we brought to work on - she for real, me a bit more virtually. I am not yet ready to share what I am doing (and may only do so if it comes out successfully) :-)

Had a snack at lunchtime, pizza from the fantastic Pizza Bar on Deck 8. Now some computer time then reading a thriller from the library. Bridge is the other major activity to be.

This evening is a formal dinner night so will get a sense of how seriously the rest of the passengers take the occasion. We have three such formal nights before Dubai. After that, probably very few given the busy touring itinerary.

On Board the Sun Princess

Today was embarkation day. A beautiful day in Sydney to celebrate our departure in style.

Everything so far has worked out perfectly.

We packed last night – a large rollaway case each – sufficient clothes we hope for 66 days of travel. Somehow, as bizarre as it might seem, I have more clothes than Merle does.

Then a briefcase for electronics – computers, iPads, chargers for this and that, double adapters and extension cords; binoculars and cameras.

Finally a carryon bag each for toiletries, changes of clothing, a couple of bottles of wine, pistachio nuts and biltong for snacking.

Took a cab to the wharf from the hotel, was dropped at the check-in area, did the Australian health questionnaire and the immigration card, registered for the cruise, passed through customs and immigration and, by noon or so were already in our cabin!

We have a balcony cabin – smaller than we had on the Pacific Princess with somewhat less hanging, drawer and storage space. Luckily the fact that I have used more than a fair share has not proven to be a bone of contention.

Departure from Sydney is an experience! Sail out of Darling Harbor, under the Sydney Harbor Bridge then past the Opera House and the magnificent buildings and residences along the shore. Farewell reception with free champagne and the resident band playing Hendrix and Clapton tunes. Questionable choice given the average age of the audience!

Spent some time exploring the facilities – lots of lounges and drinking areas; great exercise facility and spa; lovely pool for when the weather warms up (within a day or so of cruising North); a library they call the Reading room and an Internet café. We each receive 500 minutes of internet time free because we are frequent cruisers – slow upload / download times will chew that up though.

In keeping with our senior citizen status we changed our Dinner seating to the first sitting so went for dinner at 5.45pm. only two of our table mates showed up tonight – Terry and Lilly – very friendly and good company.

Now back in the room to watch a movie or read after getting this up on the web.

As far as the itinerary is concerned we are now heading North along the East Coast towards Darwin – which means 5 sea days; then 4 more sea days to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Penang. Then 4 sea days to Mumbai followed by 2 more until we reach Dubai (the end of the first leg). After Dubai we are in port after port with less free time and many interesting stops.

Tomorrow will describe the onboard routine and (hopefully) post some photos!

Sydney – under starters orders

We planned our trip this time so that we would have a few days in Sydney to provision for the cruise. We are going to be away for over two months so need to make sure we have the toiletries and everyday necessities – nowadays, with airport security, you would have to have all this stuff in your checked in baggage so its much simpler just to stock up here at Priceline and Coles.

Had disappointing news that our good friend Jay has had to cancel his trip – he had unexpected obligations he had to attend to and so we will be missing his company.

Sydney is a large, populous and busy city. Over the years Merle and I have visited often and always gravitate to the same area – downtown in the area of Circular Quay and ‘The Rocks’. This time is no exception and we are staying at the Sydney Harbor Marriott at Circular Quay which is well placed for our wanderings.

Within a short walk from the hotel you have the iconic Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge and the new Museum of Contemporary Art.

Alfred Street is a lovely peaceful location to enjoy a pie and a Starbucks flat white and then we’re off uptown via George Street.

The parallel main North-South streets are York, George and Pitt and we have spent many (happy) hours exploring all the ‘opportunities’ they have to offer. Like Melbourne, shopping arcades are an interesting place to find funky specialty stores. Sadly the Australian Dollar (as a result of their excellent economy) is at parity with the $US and things are not cheap.

One arcade-type building that we spent some time in (and have so every time we visited) is the QVB – the Queen Victoria Building. This beautifully restored old building contains four or so floors of specialty stores.

Two clocks suspended from the roof tell not only the time but also a story. The one is in the shape of a castle and on the hour a trumpeter emerges to play appropriate music.

The other, far more complex, tells you not only the day date and time but also represents the history of Australia! The arrival of the First Fleet flags waving..

The Aboriginal population and their idyllic existence before exploration had reached them

The dark side of the change that came as cultures collided – the taking of children (as in the movie Rabbit Proof Fence)

The restoration of this building is beautifully done though – lovely stained glass windows, domed central ceiling and beautifully framed wrought iron staircase to nowhere

We (maybe I?) came to the QVB on a mission however – to visit ‘Peter Nathan Toy Soldiers’ store which sells the most unbelievably crafted miniature soldiers, weapons and military vehicles through history. Didn’t buy anything but could have spent ages enjoying the workmanship.

Also to visit the ABC Store to purchase DVDs that we will watch on the cruise and keep for the library back home – The Killing Series Two ( Scandanavian style) and Australian mini-series mostly

Finally to visit Hobbyco – the most well stocked little boy cave ever! Trains, cars, boats and ‘planes. I purchased a kit that I will put together in my spare time (together with all the paints etc necessary to make a mess of perfectly well-produced plastic). Jay, see what your absence on the cruise has brought me to – playing with toy planes!!!

Merle was not to be denied however. She went to The Rocks to the button shop she always visits and found beautiful objects there that made her heart go ‘pitty pat’.

So, now we are ready to embark tomorrow on our second world cruise. Darling Harbour, Barangaroo Wharf 5, tomorrow around noon, we will be checking in.

I’ll share our itinerary on the blog tomorrow

Prelude - let the fun begin

The trip has begun though the blog has lagged somewhat!

Lets call this part of the voyage the prelude to our second world cruise.

We left New York at the crack of dawn on May 7^th for Los Angeles where we camped out at the LAX Holiday Inn Express waiting for our flight to Melbourne.

Qantas proved to be everything that United Airlines could never be – we had booked premium economy seating; which means we were behind the business class area upstairs in their Airbus A380. The seats were comfortable, tons of legroom and the flight attendants and ground staff were exceptionally courteous. The fight was scheduled for 15 hours overnight and, after a reasonably good sleep, we arrived ahead of schedule in Melbourne. Accomplished the transfer of 2 months worth of luggage to the Downtown Marriott and we were good to go!

Merle and I have visited Melbourne many times before. My first visit was to attend the International Congress of Endocrinology in 1980; subsequent trips have been focused on spending time with family who moved there from Cape Town. My cousins Barbara and Ruth and their respective families had moved to Melbourne to make new lives for themselves; Barney and Anita – my uncle and aunt – had followed them. Over the years we have been able to visit them through happy and difficult times in their lovely adopted city. What better way could there be for us to start our new adventure?

Melbourne was founded in 1835 by Batman (actually John Batman) on the Yarra River at Port Phillip Bay – a site he considered “ the place for a village”. Discovery of gold in Victoria in 1851 brought wealth and people and Melbourne grew to be the gracious city it is today. The population of Melbourne is now more than 4 million and it has come to be recognized as one of the top ‘lifestyle cities’ of the world.

From a personal perspective there are certain things that make the city special. First, the people. This is one of the most cosmopolitan (or multicultural) cities I have ever visited. Just walking to and from our hotel you pass through an area heavily represented by Greek restaurants and stores then though a Chinatown that has actually become representative of Asia at large.

People are also very friendly – we chatted in the elevator as we arrived with the porter who helped us with our luggage – told him we were about to embark on a cruise. Next thing we receive a gift from him in the form of chocolates and a bottle of wine – how cool is that? The bellboy tipping a guest!!

Second, I think, has to be the enormous enthusiasm for sport. Melbourne hosts the Australian tennis Open; the Australian F1 Grand Prix; is the birthplace of Aussie rules football and is home to the MCG – the famous Melbourne Cricket Ground.

These things together with a location on the ocean and a love of life make it a place that is easy for South Africans (especially Capetonians) to fall in love with – and South Africans definitely represent a substantial share of the multiculturalism here!

A source of pride to folks from Melbourne is their “coffee culture” and, as one who shares this weakness, drinking a flat white at a café here is a highlight.

Travel in Melbourne is easy – trams crisscross the central business district and the trains are clean fast and on time. So, soon after we arrived, we were off to visit Anita and Barbara in the suburb of Brighton which is convenient to them both and is where Ruth (presently in London) lives.

Trains leave from the Flinders Street Station built in real Victorian style in 1910. The clocks under the sign show the time of the next train departure on each line. You buy the ticket just inside and over the few days we were there Merle developed a very chatty relationship with the ticket agent!

Across the street from the station is a study in contrasts – on one hand the pub (which clearly has stood for years)

and on the other the scary modern Federation Square buildings.

On the Sandringham line train which we took each day 

out to the Middle Brighton station – old style

Church Street Brighton has it all; stores, newsagents, travel agents (all of which we visited at length – don’t ask) and the café where we met to chat and get caught up.

In a very leisurely way we followed coffee with lunch at a lovely bayfront restaurant in Brighton and then a walk along the breakwater path. 

You can see the view towards the city

and away from it towards Sandringham.

The houses along the bayfront remind me how much I have always longed for a place by the water – no, the East River doesn’t quite fit the bill.

Next day we retraced our steps and this time we intrepid foursome went to the South Melbourne Market. This was in part a mission; cousin Ethan needed his 2012 season footie cards, but was also to enjoy the vibe. Which we did.

The Market, like the Souks we will soon be visiting, sells all manner of necessities

–    - flowers 

   

-   - prepared meats and cheeses of all varieties (South African readers please note the biltong hanging above the counter)

-     - Fresh meat cuts

-       And Seafoods of all descriptions – some of them very abstruse

Then had a lovely paella for lunch at one of the market cafes

From the market we drove the Grand Prix track route then on to Caulfield where there is a South African Store to obtain vital ethnic supplies for the cruise

Finally, to close out our stay in Melbourne we went to Sandringham to have lunch at Anitas house and have some really good laughs as we caught up.

Farewell Melbourne until October 2013 – now on to Sydney