A chilly day in the far North – The Shetland Islands

The Shetland Islands are the farthest north extent of the British Isles. Beyond here the North Sea Oil rigs – which keep this part of the world busy – the largest oil and gas terminal in Europe is located here.

There are 100 or so islands that make up this archipelago with only 12 that are populated. The vista is unusual – very hilly and green. No trees. Apparently the islands are rock with a thin layer of soil only. 

Sheep – of a remarkable kind that provide the wool that is so famous. Shetland ponies – also famous – they were suffering from a contagion of some sort while here so couldn’t pet them. Beautiful islands in a severe kind of way

Archaeology of the islands tells us that they have been continuously settled since the stone age – over 3500 years ago. Today only 7000 or so live here. Since farming isn’t really an option in this climate they have survived on the sea – fishing is a phenomenal resource here because of the intersection between the North Sea and Atlantic Ocean. Fishing is the biggest income generator.

Important war history here – This was an important base for the Navy protecting the North Sea. Also the home base of the ‘Shetland Bus’ – this was the name given to the naval ferry of soldiers and refugees from Norway to Britain and Resistance agents back again on missions.

We sailed into the protected harbor of the largest Shetland Island – called Mainland - with the town of Lerwick. 

The people were very hospitable – signs of welcome.

…… and a lone fiddler. Reminded me a lot of Alex. Or maybe I just miss you all?

Sailboats from everywhere. How about the name of the sailboat from Goteborg ?? muggle wiggle??

The weather here was freezing (I kid you not) yet the locals were walking around with thin tops – it is after all mid-summer! Its what you get used to, I guess.

Terry (the ex-military guy from Australia from our dinner table) and I planning our strategy. He took the bus all around the island and stopped off at the museum. Had a great day also but a bit more educational

This is part of Scotland and the dialect is impenetrable – there is a fudge shop with a fairly standard sign

And advertising that makes fun of their patois.

This is downtown Lerwick early morning – rush hour?

Sign outside the Tourist Information building – it had a past. Arthur Anderson is a famous Shetland Islander – He started the P&O line and was its CEO. He and his family are buried here

Susie (from New Zealand) was a family friend of the Andersons. Here she is (unsuccessfully) trying to get a cab driver to take her to the cemetery. A kindly hotelier took her later, gave her a personal tour and went totally out of his way for her. Lovely people.

The buildings here are stone and very solidly constructed – have to be to withstand the elements.

The Town hall – Shetland Islands have their own flag – white cross on a blue background. Also a member of the Scots Parliament and a Member of the British parliament. A substantial percentage of the population are in civil service!!!

Red ‘phone boxes. But when last did you see someone using a public telephone? This lady was on the line for ages

We visited the library (o use the WiFi) it was lovely and warm inside and was very busy. 

Young patron leaving happily with a good read.

Walked past the carpark and saw this lovely little car – pinkish all over – clearly a local extrovert. Lael, check out the decal on the back window!

Fish and chips for lunch (minus the fish for me) in paper with salt and vinegar – a long line of passengers waited patiently.

There was plenty of shopping here – lots of Savation Army – style shops, general dealers, and local products – Shetland, fairisle sweaters. Didn’t really bother. Enough stuff!

We’re on our way to Iceland now. Sun is out. Optimism breaks out again

So this is Summer? Bergen, Norway

Starting in the Bay of Biscay, as we sailed from Lisbon to Le Havre, the weather turned ‘pear shaped’ on our adventure. The seas became rough to tumultuous at times and our days became overcast with rain – quite strong at times.

Add to this the element of 24 hour sunshine as we progressed northward and our experience couldn’t be further removed from that only a short while ago!!

Other than not being able to lie out on deck in the sun (and getting a tan) the weather really is neither here nor there – you just wear more or less clothes. It does change the way a place looks, though.

From Dover we had a day at sea as we sailed through the English Channel into the North Sea. It was most strange in the morning – as we sailed into Hjelete Fjord at 4am. Bright sunlight then cloud. The sea suddenly calm. Then a 38 mile ride through the most marvelous scenery – green cliffs coming down to the waters edge and suddenly we were in the harbor of Bergen.

Bergen was founded in 1070 and – because of its location on the North Sea – has been a busy and important trading port and, in its time, one of the principal cities of the Hanseatic Trading League.

It is still a busy port today – commercial and fishing – but also attracts cruise ships doing the Nordic or Fjord cruises and is very busy. Lots of boats and ships in town from all over.

One comment though at the outset – it is expensive to shop here! Norwegians must have done well by staying out of the EU.

We had the day (until 4pm) to wander around and explore the area around the port – a UNESCO world heritage site called (confusingly) Bryggen.

The street along the wharf is lined with wooden buildings painted in reds and ochres (apparently just as were the old warehouses). 

Very much like Alaska the buildings are separated by narrow winding lanes and linked overhead by passageways.

Nowadays these buildings house shops selling a variety of local products.

Troll dolls are a big deal here!!! With the Happy Birthday Girl!!!!!

Rubbing a troll brings more luck than the bronze piggy in Florence?????

Also Norwegian knitware. Merle bought a lovely warm lined woolen sweater – so we ask the (very honest) saleslady “is it made in Norway”?. She answers “well, the design is Norwegian, the wool Australian but its made in Hong Kong!” globalization.

There were local products to be had (if you were brave enough). Reindeer horns in every form – here bottle openers. Reindeer or whale hamburger or other dishes. Even Reindeer heads mounted. We gave them all a miss.

Also the local buns

Even local outfits

Furs and skins of all descriptions. I was very tempted to buy fur slippers for the house in Vegas but the prices…………..

As is to be expected (given how we like to see a new place) we visited the Fish Market at the head of the harbor – the Torget.


The fishermen enjoyed hamming for the photographer

There were fish for sale here (obviously) in all stages of evolution – from fish eggies

To the dried, salted and truly dead

Also lovely local fruits (designed in Norway………etc)

They sold goods of all descriptions here – Merle bought a yellow fishermans hat for the weather (lined with ear flaps). cute.

Sadly, because of the low cloud there was no point in taking the funicular to the top of Mt Florien which apparently offers a beautiful vista of the area

The sailaway in the evening reprised our arrival – still light. Still overcast. The Fjord still beautiful. Then hit the North Sea and the rollercoaster begins again

BTW we have sailed 17872 nautical miles since leaving Sydney so far!!!!!!!

London

Sailed into Dover early am. A small and relatively quiet port (apart from the cross-channel ferries)

Pretty town. Tucked away under the protective walls of Dover Castle which sits on top of the famous white cliffs.

Factoid. The other side of the channel at Le Havre exact same white cliffs. Same limestone geology. No one talks or sings about the white cliffs of Normandy?

Plan was to drive into London for the day and catch up on shopping and have a quiet day. Weather awful. Sunday. Wimbledon. British Grand Prix. Kept all sensible people at home so we had an easy run into and out of the city.

Interesting to me as a confirmed republican (not American-style; no belief in royalty style) how Australians behaved the moment they landed in England. They became positively gooey eyed. Singing White cliffs of Dover on the busride. Intense questioning of the guide re the status of Charles and horseface. I was amazed

City was packed. Seems the Emirates emptied for the weekend (and I dont mean the stadium Barb!!!)

A 10K run caused traffic chaos

Celebration everywhere for the happy (dampish) summer Hamleys had the royals immortalized in Lego.

Union Jacks in Oxford Street

Flags of all the nations down Regent Street

Little bitty flags in little bitty Soho streets

Beautiful places to see

Olympic rings in Tower Bridge above the river

Windows of Selfridges decorated with humorous British scenelets

Did some good things shopped for supplies. Bought some English mags and some much-awaited DVDs 

Failed in my effort to buy paints for the project (which, as a result, I cant finish completely)

Saw the London Eye, the river, Big Ben, Parliament, lovely old bank and St Pauls all at a distance.

And the new tallest building in Europe - the "shard"

Spoke to Cousin Ruth (tho sadly had no time to visit)

Walking back to the bus was navigating through Soho when Merle got to see Jason Statham face to face while I missed him completely (him being, like, four feet tall or something) (and it was raining) (and I had to get us through the maze of streets)

Bah humbug